From Seattle writer and consultant Matt Rosenberg...

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Touring Like A Local: The Magic Of Mountain Loop Highway

July 02, 2006

UPDATED......Max and I joined some good friends - another dad and son - on a hike yesterday to Heather Lake in Washington's North Cascades. It's family-friendly; a mere 1,000-foot elevation gain in 1.9 miles to the lake. The trail is somewhat rocky and root-laden but very shaded and scenic. The payoff, after the usual "are we there yet?" grumbling from the kids, was an excellent lesson in deferred gratification. An attractive alpine lake surrounded by snow-napped mountains (below left), and a loop trail with a boardwalk offering more scenic vistas (below right).

At the insistence of the suddenly invigorated kids, we ended up going off-trail to the edge of a snowfield where three waterfalls high above on the cliffsides were visible. (You can see one just to the right of center at the very top of the second photo below, and another on the left of the same pic, running down into the snowline). Then we came back down to the trail on a dry creekbed, and found a waterside spot for lunch.

The Heather Lake trailhead is accessed from Seattle via Mountain Loop Highway, a gateway into the Mount-Baker Snoqualmie National Forest and many excellent hikes therein. The road, built by the Civilian Conservations Corps, now closes about 30 miles in, after Barlow Pass. In summer it used to go through to the northeast to the town of Darrington, and then continue on under another name to Route 20 - the North Cascades Highway - at Marblemount. You could still spend an entire summer exploring all the excellent hikes off MLH. You'll espy fine spots for picnics and fishing along the south fork of the Stillaguamish River; and can view ice caves (VERY carefully); plus hike to a ghost mining village called Monte Cristo. The Forest Service compendium of hikes off Mountain Loop is here (click on embedded links for more information on each). Updates on trail conditions are added regularly. One favorite of mine is Mount Forgotten Meadows. Lots of huckleberries to pick along the trail in late summer, and views of Glacier Peak at the top. A great workout, as well.

On our hike to Heather Lake yesterday, there was no snow on the way up, only above the lake. In a few weeks, the snow should be melted on the trail to Mount Pilchuck, a tougher hike that's still do-able with somewhat gonzo kids, and which boasts awesome Puget Sound and mountain views at the summit. The trailheads for Mount Pilchuck and Heather Lake are both reached from Mount Pilchuck Road, via Mountain Loop Highway. See below for full directions.

DIRECTIONS: From Seattle, take I-5 north into Everett, then Route 2 east. Exit shortly at Route 204 North toward Lake Stevens. At second light, turn left onto Route 9 North, continuing a mile or so to Route 92 East toward Granite Falls. Follow Route 92 about eight miles into the town of Granite Falls, making sure to stop at The Timberline Cafe (right side of street - can't miss it) for biscuits and gravy, with basted eggs on the side. As Route 92 ends at a "T," turn left. That becomes Mountain Loop Highway. After about 15 minutes or so, you'll pass the Forest Service's Verlot ranger station (on the left) and then the first bridge. Turn immediately right onto Mount Pilchuck Road (it is only signed on the left). About a mile up on the right, the first parking area is for Heather Lake (trailhead across the road). Another six miles up the road is the Mount Pilchuck trailhead.

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