Back in Chicago to see the 'rents. Got off the Jefferson Park El line at Damen and North (Nelson Algren's old haunts) and ended up walking about two-plus miles across town to my destination. Yes, it was raining just a bit, and I was a drowned rat by the time I got where I was going, but walking is what I do in Chicago. Wicker Park is as trendy as ever. Coming from Seattle, I realized that I did NOT need to wander in to any Chicago joint called the "Pacific Cafe," nor did I need any of "Seattle's Best Coffee" (which it most assuredly isn't) from a Chicago pizza joint.

Hauling my suitcase on wheels, I ambled up to Wabansia St. (about 1800 N.) and headed east. Real quiet, lotsa trees and fancy, two- and three-flats. One blond brick two-flat had a life-sized ceramic zebra posed by the picture window. Now that's style. Found a little place called The Lincoln Tavern, for a brief beverage break. Deer antler light fixtures, people smoking like fiends, great atmo. Club Lucky looked enticing. Bars and restaurants on the quiet side streets always seem like they must be cooler. Often they are. Kept going, though, through the no-mans-land around the Kennedy Expressway on North Avenue, all the way to Lake Michigan.

A few observations along the way. First, one-hand in pants pocket, obscured by coat, is cheaper and less hassle than carrying a piece, and often works as well.

Second, I spontaneously erupted in disgusted laughter after spotting a campaign billboard for a lifetime Cook County Democratic political hack who is now - or was recently - running for a county court judicial post. In and around Chicago, the Machine tools are all lifers with a death grip on this or that sinecure; and the last, best spot is on the bench. Gawd, it still makes me ill.

Two, beware of Mexican restaurants with parking valets. I didn't go in, just saw one - and chortled.

Three, I vote - once again for gentrification. It's usually so much better than the alternative. In the old days, i.e. the 1980s and earlier, North Ave. and Halsted St. was basically....a good place to get mugged, assaulted or murdered. Now, the whole stretch of North Ave. between Halsted and Sheffield is....a great place to...spend money. Chicago has no shortage of independently-owned businesses and cool, franchise-free neighborhood commercial districts. That's one reason I can walk around the city for hours on end. But there's a place for national franchises in the city too, along the wider boulevards in once-dicey zones, with large lots rendered into urban malls. Victoria's Secret, California Pizza Kitchen, Crate and Barrel, Borders, an eight-story office tower. It all beats the hell out of winos and thugs. People on the street, eyes on the street, safety, jobs. All where there was none before. Hail the healing power of capitalism.

Finally, there was this conversation between two young men, overheard as I passed them in the 300 block of W. North Ave. "My girlfriend has had like FOUR abortions...." (followed by admiring, slightly incredulous laugh). Like, whatever, dude.

Now, I'm going to try to convince my dad to go to El Nuevo Leon, in Pilsen.

TECHNORATI TAGS: SEATTLE, CHICAGO, EL, WICKER PARK, LINCOLN TAVERN, CLUB LUCKY, CHICAGO DEMOCRATIC MACHINE, NORTH AND HALSTED, CRIME, GENTRIFICIATION, ABORTION, EL NUEVO LEON

Posted by Matt Rosenberg at March 9, 2006 11:03 AM