From Seattle writer and consultant Matt Rosenberg...

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Matt's Famous New Mexico Red Chili

March 08, 2005

OK, OK, I know. When the teeming hundreds turn to Rosenblog, it's for the latest oddball news from Left Coast burgs such as Santa Cruz, Arcata, San Francisco and Vancouver. Or for informed socio-political diatribes about my dear, politically stultified home of Seattle; not to mention my penetrating economic analysis, ruminations on race and politics, recommendations on Latin jazz, plus my Hendrix tribute concert reviews, discourses on cultural errata, and reports of indiscreet biological phenomena.

Although I have written about food a few times at Rosenblog (here and here, for instance) - I'm pretty sure that one thing you're probably NOT coming here for is my recipe for New Mexico Red Chili.

Thing is, I didn't know about this fine brew myself until the other day, when - adhering to some of my tried and true chili-making principles - I whipped up a new version for a chili taste-off and charity fundraiser at my wife's workplace. I am now in receipt of the news that not only did it go over big, but one woman was up all night thinking about it. And wants the recipe. How can I resist such flattery? I can't.

MATT'S NEW MEXICO RED CHILI

Set aside 1 cup New Mexico red chile powder. NO substitutes. Mexican grocery.

In cup, mix 2 t EACH ground cumin, celery seed, and Hungarian sweet paprika; plus 1&1/2 t thyme, 1 t ground annato powder, 1/2 t Chinese five spice powder.

Set aside 2 bay leaves, 1/2 cinnamon stick, and 1/4 t high-quality cocoa powder.

Coarsely chop two medium-large sweet onions, and six cloves of garlic.

Finely chop, and then finely mince 3 lb. lean pork loin

Melt 3 T bacon grease (no substitutes) in large stockpot, saute onions about 10 mins, add garlic and 3 T flour, saute a few more mins. Add meat, chile powder and and all herbs and spices except cocoa powder, bay leaves and cinnamon strick. Stir constantly over med. heat for 2 or 3 mins. The mixture will be dry, but distribute all the spices into meat and onions.

Add a 32-oz carton of Pacific Beef Broth, mix well. Ensure heat returns to mild, bubbling simmer. Add 2C apple juice, mix well, return to simmer. Mix in cocoa powder, cinnamon stick and bay leaves.

Simmer at low bubble, uncovered, about 3 hrs., until meat is tender. Stir periodically.

In last 45 mins, add in 1 29-oz. can well-rinsed white hominy. NOTE: These are whole hominy, not the ground stuff used for grits. They're already cooked, firm and toothsome, looking like white garbanzos. Available in Mexican, Latin and some other grocery stores.

Add up to a cup of water in last 30 mins, if too thick. Consistency should be that of a medium-thick soup. Add salt only at table.

Do not foul with wussy garnishes such as grated cheese or sour cream. This is Las Cruces chili, not Cincinnati-style. Accordingly, no macaroni allowed either. Permitted garnishes: chopped green onions; chunks of fresh avocado; plus cornbread or sopapillas on the side. Spicyness: medium. Serve with cold Mexican beer; Syrah or (real, red) Zinfandel.

Posted by Matt Rosenberg at March 8, 2005 10:54 AM


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Comments:

I've been wanting this recipe for years! I first tasted New Mexico Red Chili when I was visiting... New Mexico, of course. Was in Taos when I started realizing that New Mexican was a very distinct cuisine from Mexican, and absolutely loved it.

Oh... and when it comes to stultifyingly political (and particularly Lefty-political), I think Taos might even have Seattle beat. I've never seen anything like it. Nice place to visit, but I don't know if I could stand to live there.

Posted by: Jeff Brazill at March 8, 2005 06:11 PM

New Mexico is famous for its GREEN chile, not red chile.

The New Mexico green chile is spicy, yet sublimely sweet. I prefer it to virtually all else (except maybe Habanero, which wins on the pure, unadulterated spiciness).

It is truly the Queen of the chile world.

Posted by: James J. Na at March 9, 2005 02:55 AM

Actually James, having spent several weeks traipsing and eating my way around New Mexico, I can tell you that the state is famous - or should be - for its green AND red chiles, and resulting chili brews based on them.

The green, made from a sauce based on roasted Anaheim or Anaheim-like chiles is certainly a trademark of the state. But they take their red chile peppers quite seriously in New Mexico, and all the restuarants serving chile offer a green and a red. The red chili made with New Mexico red chiles is VERY different from the standard American red chili made with canned tomatoes, kidney beans and ground beef.

And, do take note: there is a well known speciality product, which is in my recipe, called New Mexico chile powder, that is a deep red.

I'll have to make you the above recipe sometime. or maybe some green AND red, for comparison purposes.

Posted by: Matt R. at March 9, 2005 09:32 AM

During that same trip to New Mexico (which included Albuquerque and Santa Fe, as well as Taos), I was fortunate enough to have tried both (the red and the green). I would be extremely hard put to pick a favorite. I'd have to agree with James on one thing for sure - the sweetness of the green chili in concert with the spiciness - definitely a heavenly orchestration of seemingly incompatible flavors.

Posted by: Jeff Brazill at March 9, 2005 11:21 AM

Matt:

I stomped around New Mexico quite a bit as well (my roommate from college was from a town outside Albuquerque, and I visited his family frequently). I got to see a lot of rural central New Mexico that tourists often skip.

My favorite deer jerky comes from New Mexico (laced with green chile). My favorite town in the world is Santa Fe (I plan to retire there eventually). One of my favorite restaurants in the world is located in Santa Fe, called "Santa Cafe" (not to be confused with the Seattle area New Mexican restaurant "Santa Fe Cafe," which, by the way, flies in New Mexico green chile to Seattle).

Jeff:

Spicy and sweet are not incompatible! In fact, that combination is what I like best in food. Take Korean food, for example.

A Bulgogi dinner has sweet table-grilled beef, spicy pickled vegetables, including Kimchi of various kinds and neutral-flavored rice. The combination is what makes the whole thing tasty. Each of the components on its own is not nearly as good!

Posted by: James J. Na at March 10, 2005 09:44 PM

By the way, Matt, I do not know what "the standard American red chili made with canned tomatoes, kidney beans and ground beef" is, as I do not eat "chili" that has any kind of beans.

Posted by: James J. Na at March 10, 2005 09:46 PM

James, good for you. Chili with beans is not really chili. In my book...and that of other "true chili" afficionados.

Now... how can we "true chili" lovers and associated semi-purists spread the "true chili" message? Green and Red.

I'm sure there are many authentic chili lover Web sites...but...what about a "true chili" blog? Or is that a sustainable blog theme? Latest news and commentary on "true chili"?

Hey...if there can be knitting blogs.......

Posted by: Matt R. at March 10, 2005 10:10 PM

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