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Salem? Fuggedaboudit!
February 22, 2005
With a new conference center opening, it's time locals began to talk up Salem, Oregon, the state's capital, and the town's many arresting attractions, says the Statesman-Journal. Sorry, I've been through Salem a few times too many. My impressions: bad traffic, franchises, a crappy-looking downtown mall, generic America, Nowheresville. I'm sure I missed a historic district and some art galleries and a few good restaurants, maybe even a few nice residential neighborhoods and city parks. But you know what? Oregon's a vast wonderland, and face it: Where you really want to be is the coast, the rural wine valley regions, the Umpqua (River) Scenic Byway's winding 60-plus miles from Roseburg east up to Crater Lake, plus the wild Rogue River running out to the coast, the Columbia River Gorge, the Shakespeare festival and enchanting village center in Ashland, not to mention a 'lil ol' mountain range called The Cascades. Salem's just never gonna rate. Great place for a conference on land use planning, tho. My very favorite part of greater Salem is Route 22, west, out of town, to Route 99W south. That leads right into the heart of the rustic and romantic South Willamette Valley wine region. Give yourself a good-half day, and leave empty space in your trunk for a mixed case of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. Past Eugene, stop at the one winery in a tiny hamlet named Lorane for a picnic lunch, then when 99W finally rejoins I-5 near Curtin and Anlauf, bear west on 38, through Drain, and out to the coast at Reedsport. Keep going through Coos Bay (by no means spend the night in this hopeless hellhole as I once did some years back, my flagging spirits supported only by take-out pizza, beer and the Urban Dance Squad on MTV) and keep driving to Bandon-By-The-Sea. Kick back for four days, or a week in Bandon, making sure you rent a place on the water side of Beach Loop Drive, then resume your wanderings. That's Bandon on my new masthead, BTW. Salem. As if. Posted by Matt Rosenberg at February 22, 2005 06:10 PM Trackback Pings TrackBack URL for this entry: Comments:
Matt, just this evening I am back from... You guessed it. Salem. Okay, so you have missed the awesome art museum at Willamette University (which announced another cool million to its endowment today); the sweet children's museum and stroll along the riverfront to the greatest indoor carousel - literally constructed from scratch as a community partnership project; the capitol grounds and tour with nearby Bush Park and lovely outdoor art and garden shows throughout the summer; the magnanimous public spirit shown by the greatest number of skate parks anywhere; and did I mention the tax-free shopping at the Nordstrom and Meyer & Frank downtown? The new conference center is going to position them well for the small and mid-size regional association meetings of every organization under the cloudy northwest skies. And it will bolster the confidence of downtown retailers, and particularly the about-to-be entrepeneurs taking a chance on a comfortably-sized small town. Meanwhile, I had an awesome Lange Pinot Gris up in Dundee today at this very sophisticated Bistro - also visited the very nice Lange Winery up in the Red Hills above Dundee. But if I were wagering, I'd say watch the little town of Dayton (where the pioneer era blockhouse sits in a perfect public square). If we were smart, we would relocate down there and buy it all up - that town may look like Appalachia now - but watch it blossom into Sonoma-North in the next decade... Posted by: P. Scott at February 22, 2005 11:17 PMThanks for the tips Scott, all sounds quite nice. Maybe I'll manage to spend a few hours there next time I'm passing by. I think maybe part of my aversion to Salem is the scale of the place. It's not REAL big of course...but in a smaller place, like say, Corvallis, it's easier to zero in on the pleasant outdoor public spaces, which is always a priority with a few young kids. And the downtown has its own local flavor. In Oregon, I'd rather be in Portland, where the urban experience is full-blown; or on the coast, in the mountains, or somewhere with really distinct small town flavor, like Ashland. I suppose the corrolary to Salem in Washington is Olympia, our own state capitol. Pleasant place to muck about for a few hours. But would you recommend it as a destination? The other thing to Salem's disadvantage is the often molasses-like traffic on I-5 betweeen it and Portland. If you're coming from the north, the congestion only clears up just after Salem, and my inclination is to break on through to the other side, the less-tramelled spaces, where "the west is the best," truly, Posted by: Matt R. at February 23, 2005 09:56 AMI live in Salem. It is indeed lame. Posted by: Steve B. at February 23, 2005 12:32 PMAnd I forgot to mention the incredible heavy metal scene in the Salem-Albany-Corvallis area on down to Eugene. Those kids can play! My favorite is a Christian band called 'Falling Up' Suckiness is completely an internal state of mind, not influenced by one's location. If Salem sucks, then every 'big town' that's not quite a 'small city' sucks as well. Nadda gunnna happen. Fuggedaboudit! ;-) Posted by: P. Scott at February 23, 2005 02:37 PMHaving spent a significant amount of time in the Salem-Albany-Corvallis area, I can vouch that Salem does indeed suck. It's not so much that there's anything wrong with it really, it's just so very, very generic. I mean, Corvallis has more personality than Oregon's state capitol, and it's a fraction of the size. Posted by: Nathan Azinger at February 24, 2005 09:37 AMPost a comment
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